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When assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.